In the late afternoon, we set out with Jimmy again to explore the Serengeti:

Hyenas, lying about near their den.


Watching animals in Africa, sometimes I had the odd feeling that life was imitating art, because the human puppet animals in Disney’s Lion King so accurately mimic the habits and gaits of hyenas, giraffes, lions, wildebeest and elephants.
Cape buffaloes mysteriously on the move, as we returned to camp:

and a gorgeous Serengeti nightfall:

Before I turn to the the following day, a note about laundry, especially for my female readers. At this camp, we had been told (and it was written in the camp info package) that the staff might not launder ladies’ underwear. Well, sometimes they did and sometimes they didn’t. Even if I separated the laundry and kept underwear out of the basket, the staff sometimes picked it up, took it away and washed it. Other times, they didn’t. However, you pay a price for getting your underwear washed – your bras. They disappear in Africa. Both socks in a pair come back, but bras do not — be forewarned.
Ladies’ lingerie became an even bigger issue at our next destination — Zanzibar, a mostly Muslim country.
On December 29, our last day on safari, we drove out onto the Serengeti to locate the great migratory herds. Zebra and wildebeest below, wending their way across the vast plains — a curving river of animals, flowing across the grass.

Drinking at a waterhole, nervous and alert, keeping an eye out for predators:

Continuing the Lion King theme, we drove on to what looked like Pride Rock. Two big male lions, probably brothers, rested on top. Up until now, we hadn’t been too wowed by lions — they are so lazy during the day in real life! But these magnificent beasts were impressive.

Look at this big male that turned to look gaze directly at us, sleepily curious, but wholly unperturbed.

A hyena prowled along next to a family of zebra, sized up the foal’s vulnerability, gave up and slouched on.

We had now reached the central area of the Serengeti, where there is more varied geography, but more safari traffic, too. A beautiful leopard, but jeeps in the background, unfortunately.

An amazing African panorama — acacia in the foreground, a herd of elephants in the background.

Hippos.

The sun was beating down on the Serengeti, and the day grew even hotter, drier, dustier, as we turned back toward camp. We found a pair of lions, right next to the road, hanging around to drink out of its drainage ditch — a thin trickle of muddy water. Jimmy said they were a mating pair. The female wore a radio collar.



The male was keeping a close eye on the female’s every move.

He followed her across the road and tried to approach her.

But she turned around and snarled. They both settled down and panted in the heat, under the brilliant blue sky.
“Maybe she’s not ready,” Jimmy suggested.
Or maybe she just didn’t like him! He did not have the dignified, royal look one expects of lions — he was a little dopey looking, I think… Here’ s a closeup …

We spent the rest of the day back in camp, enjoying its shade and preparing to depart the next morning.

Here’s part of the camp’s energy supply:

All the wonderful meals we ate in this camp were cooked by Chef Paul, shown standing in front of his tent, below. For lunch and dinner every day, he baked delicious fresh bread in the oven visible on the left side of the photo.

Tomorrow – on to Zanzibar, the beach and the Internet again — hallelujah!