

My husband and four kids chattered and laughed as we neared the rendezvous point with the dog sledding outfitters, but I kept quiet. They were eager to try this new winter activity. I was not. I don’t like to get cold, and I don’t like taking risks.
My thoughts also kept returning to our 14-year-old daughter. We’d left her behind at the guest ranch where we staying over the holidays. She was recuperating from a skiing injury and couldn’t be bumped around without renewed pain. She was content to remain at the lodge, watching movies and sipping hot chocolate, but I hate our family to be separated. I hadn’t descended into an evil mood, but I wasn’t in a happy, spunky one, either.
We reached a snow-covered parking lot where about 20 dogs, all chained to a beat-up truck, barked, yipped, whined and yapped. One of the larger dogs (or, maybe, a half-wolf) sat down on his haunches, tilted his head back and howled into the clear blue western sky. The yellow-brown fur on his back hung off in mangy patches.
In fact, not one of the dogs looked like it could star in “Balto” or run more than 100 yards, although they made such a racket my head ached. They were small, skinny and seemed to be an underfed bunch of misfit mongrels. We kept a nervous distance from the pack and held back our excited 3 year old, Lynne, who wanted to pet the doggies.
Chris, the owner of the team, strode over and introduced himself to us. Well over six feet tall, he loomed over our family huddle. He wore a huge down parka with its fur-trimmed hood pulled up over his head. Appropriate because the temperature was only about 10 degrees. He told my husband Dwight the dogs were Alaskan huskies that could run up to 150 miles a day.
I kept my doubts to myself about the dogs’ strength and stamina. I consoled myself that if we rode more slowly, we would ride more safely. Although we might freeze to death.
Chris had a helper who looked like he had just crawled out of one of Steamboat’s bars after a long night. We nicknamed him Sleazy.
Chris and Sleazy began to unchain the dogs from the truck one by one. The men grabbed the dogs by the scruffs of their necks and collars, and then they half-ran, half-dragged the dogs on their two hind legs up to three sleds waiting at the trailhead and buckled the dogs into their sled harnesses.
I thought that sled dogs would instantly obey their masters’ verbal commands and leap into their assigned slots. These dogs jumped back and forth over chains and harnesses and each other while they fought, became tangled, and continued to yip, bark, howl, yelp, and whine at an unbearable decibel level.
I turned to Dwight in astonishment as Chris gestured first at me and then at one of the sleds. “I’m driving? I thought I was just going to be a passenger!”
“Guess not!” he said and grinned.
Over the cacophony of the dogs, we sorted ourselves into the three staked sleds with six dogs each. I stood on the runners of one with our son Troy, age 9, wrapped in a blanket and cocooned into the zippered sled seat below me. Dwight was our toddler Lynne’s driver. Tyler, 16 years old, was the musher for his sister Clare, age 12.
Chris yelled simple driving instructions at us: “Stand on the runners while moving. Take one foot off the runner and place it on the center rubber mat to slow the dogs down. Put both feet on the metal claw brake to stop the dogs. ”
He added, “The only tricky part of this trip is getting over the bump onto the trail. Once you get going, we’ll stay out of sight with the snowmobiles.”
I was looking at my feet, figuring out their placement, trying to absorb the information and worrying.
Chris screamed, “Go, Susan!” as he unstaked my sled and freed the dogs to run.
At once, the dogs jerked forward. My heart pounded as we careened over the bump onto the trail. Immediately, the sled lurched to the left and began to skid along on its side with Troy still zipped tightly inside. I fell off the tipped sled, scrambled to my feet and raced after it. I caught up to it, grabbed the handle and threw my weight against the sled’s forward motion. The dogs slowed, stopped, then burst into barking, howling and yelping again.
“Are you all right?” I screamed to Troy.
“Fine,” he answered with a huge smile.
Chris appeared beside me on his snowmobile. A little late, I thought. But he righted my sled, and we set off again, this time without incident.
Dwight and Tyler steered their sleds onto the trail without difficulty, and our long, cold, 13-mile ride along the North Fork Trail started.
The dogs ran along, now blessedly silent. But they did not run smoothly and cooperatively, as I had imagined they would. They ran raggedly. Some trotted along evenly with their tails erect and their harnesses tight, pulling the sled. Others scrabbled along on a diagonal line, tails drooping, bumping into their paired partner or the powdery bank along the edge of the trail. My largest dog jogged erratically, vaguely contributing to the team-pulling effort.
Chris and Sleazy zoomed by us on their snowmobiles. The dogs picked up their pace as the vehicles passed, then resumed a ragtag lope. Now that I felt calmer, however, Troy and I chatted a bit.
We rounded a corner and found Sleazy parked next to the trail. “We have to wait for the third sled,” he announced.
I felt confident enough to turn around because I was fully stopped with all my weight loaded onto the brake. I saw Dwight and Lynne a short distance behind us, but no sign of Tyler and Clare. My heart began to thud again, but then I spotted their sled cresting a small hill. Their dogs were barely loping.
Chris (Where had he been?) joined Sleazy, and we all waited for Tyler and Clare to catch up. Chris and Sleazy shifted around a couple of dogs to better balance them and told Tyler and Clare to lead now.
Again, the men zipped ahead on their snowmobiles. The 18 dogs showed a brief spark of pep, then settled into their trademark sloppy pace. Only now, with the two kids in the lead, I had to ride my rubber brake.
Tyler and Clare’s dogs stopped as soon as the trail began to slope uphill, turned around and looked at the kids, then stood around and sulked. Tyler hopped off the sled, ran along beside it and yelled at them while holding onto the handle. The dogs sped up for a few moments, then slowed again and again.
My hands and feet felt frozen and began to ache. We were moving so slowly that I was standing with one foot on the runner and one foot on the brake to stay a reasonable distance behind the kids’ sled. Ty and Clare yelled and groaned at their team. Troy and Lynne, well bundled and comfortable, promptly fell asleep.
Sleazy popped out of nowhere and hollered at Ty and Clare not to yell at their team because their dogs were the youngest and most inexperienced. I began to wonder if this expedition would end before I had frostbite.
After a long ride, we reached the trail’s turnaround point where Chris and Sleazy awaited us. Chris grabbed the lead dogs of Ty and Clare’s sled and guided them easily around the smoothed loop. Sleazy tugged my dogs into the powdery rough center of the turnaround, and my sled began to tilt, reminiscent of the journey’s start.
“Lady, get off the sled and push!” Sleazy hollered at me.
“I’m not feeling good about this!” I shouted, but no one was listening because Chris had allowed Clare to clamber onto her sled without loading anyone into the seat. Her dogs (the same ones that had crept up the trail) now felt less weight and no restraint. They began to rocket homeward along the trail as fast as they could. Chris sprang forward in an Olympian dive, and his bulk halted the dogs in their tracks.
Simultaneously, Dwight’s team spotted their buddies headed home and simply doubled back, parallel to their own sled, but facing the opposite direction and began to pull toward home, too. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw his sled tipping over with Lynne in it, and I began to scream in panic, although Dwight remained calm and quickly regained control over his dogs.
Somehow, we all got straightened out, despite Sleazy. Ty took over my sled as Troy’s driver; I climbed into Clare’s sled, gratefully pulled the blanket over me, and zipped the covers up to my nose. Dwight had righted his own sled, and he and Lynne were underway.
We headed off downhill. The dogs skidded along, eager as I was for this trip to be over. Ty and Troy sped ahead. Back at the ranch, Tyler told me that when he got out of the snowmobilers’ sight, he reached down into the sled, hauled Troy out onto the runners and let Troy drive, too. Clare drove confidently, but I felt anxious because we were stuck with the sideways-leaning lead dog that kept pulling the other lead dog off course. Precipices loomed next to us.
Clare complained about my back sled driving and mocked my fears about falling off the cliffs. Dwight continued to guide his sled with unflappable insouciance. When his sled neared ours, I shouted, “Is Lynne OK?”
“Still sleeping,” he responded calmly. When Lynne did awaken, very near the end of the trip, she waved gaily at Clare and me. Her little bundled face beamed out at us from her covers.
As we approached the long, gentle downward slope at the end of the trail, I could see Ty and Troy in the distance. From afar, their dogs appeared to pull gracefully and evenly. We were going to survive this adventure safely after all. I relaxed and appreciated the magnificent beauty of Colorado.
Deep, powdery white snow sparkled under the morning sunlight. The Rocky Mountains crested magnificently all around us. We were alone with nature, no other humans in sight.
At that peaceful moment, our largest dog, without any fuss, opened his mouth and spewed yellow vomit all over the trail. The other dogs, ignoring his issues, continued to run and simply dragged him onward to the trail’s end.
At long last, our family dog sledding trek was over.
